‘The best 2018s are beautifully perfumed mid-weight Barolos’ Antonio Galloni
27/09/2024
At a wine tasting last month with clients, something that stood out for many was the finesse and charm in the 2018 Barolos that we showed. This is a vintage that has yielded elegant, aromatically expressive wines which are ready to enjoy now and they are an absolute pleasure to drink.
It is undeniable that 2018 was marred by problematic conditions including a very wet spring and hail in August. It has, however, been a little unfairly written off by some. I think the main point to consider with the 2018s is that it is a variable vintage – the difficulties it presented necessitated quick and decisive action by winemakers. Those who were able to react effectively to nature’s challenges produced attractive wines of immense charm with supple tannins.
One of the problems that comes with enjoying Barolo is the patience required in the very greatest vintages. The region has enjoyed a run of excellent growing seasons in the past 15 years with the likes of 2010, 2013, 2016, 2019 and 2021. The great wines from vintages such as these, thrilling as they are, will only begin to unfurl after years of patient cellaring. Thankfully, there are also vintages like 2018, whose approachability and supple tannins mean that they are not wines destined to lie for decades in cellars, these are wines to be opened and enjoyed now.
We presented two Barolo producers at our tasting, Giovanni Manzone and Luigi Pira and whose 2018s showed brilliantly. See below for details.
Giovanni Manzone
“Manzone is one of Piedmont’s greatest under the radar gems. The wines have been especially fine here for a number of years, and yet the estate’s reputation has not caught up. Readers who appreciate fine, nervy Barolos will adore the 2018s. I was impressed, but I can no longer say surprised.”
Antonio Galloni, Oct 2022
Antonio Galloni has long been effusive in his praise of this estate, often questioning how it has not yet got the recognition it so clearly deserves, even commenting in 2021 that ““Manzone is among the estates in Barolo that has the potential to ascend into the realm of the truly elite.”
It was a comment that further inspired us to visit the Monforte estate, where we first tasted the 2018s and which led us to start buying from the estate directly. We really believe in these wines, and our enthusiasm is now shared by a number of our customers. The Manzone style is so appealing – it is all about finesse and gentle handling of tannins, wines marked by aromatic intensity and a wonderful minerality. I would urge you to try these wines if you have not yet had the pleasure. We have modest amounts remaining (20-30 bottles per wine).
They make three single vineyard Barolo all from high altitude sites and which all convey the essence of their respective terroirs.
Luigi Pira
“Gianpaolo Pira makes some of the most gorgeous Barolos in Serralunga.”
Antonio Galloni, Jan 2023
Based in Serralunga, Luigi’s son, Gianpaolo Pira, has evolved their winemaking style over recent years, moving away from the former trend of extracted, overly structured tannins, and towards a softer and more refined approach. This has translated into the wines, which possess a finesse that was not always present in older vintages. The wines now show a purity of fruit and fragrance and, whilst there is still a richness and structure to the wines (we are in Serralunga after all), they are now more understated and, quite frankly, more enjoyable today than ever before.
Such is the rising popularity of Luigi Pira that we have sold out of a number of wines. From the 2018 vintage, we can offer the Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba – their straight Barolo, alongside the single vineyard Margheria. Other vintages and wines are available on request.
Please do get in touch if you would be interested in taking any of these Barolo, which come highly recommended and are absolutely delicious.
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