Robert Parker 95
Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru from Chanson, Baston de l’Oratoire has a slightly volatile, soy-tinged nose that redeems itself by some very intense and attractive red fruits. With time it evolves more tertiary, gravelly scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly dry tannins. This feels a little tarry in the mouth at the moment due to the amount of unresolved oak, a little brutish on the finish but there is plenty of charm here. “Bit of a bruiser” as they say, but a bruiser you’ll want to spend time with. This was one of the shock results of the blind tasting, but it’s averaged score was higher than any other Clos-de-Bèze with the sole exception of Rousseau. One can only say: chapeau!
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035