Robert Parker 95
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chevalier Montrachet la Cabotte Grand Cru from Bouchard Pere & Fils has a slightly more exotic bouquet within this flight with touches of white chocolate and almond originating from the more generous and conspicuous use of new oak. It needs time to fully integrated. The palate is concentrated and lightly honeyed, the acidity nicely judged but there is a nagging feeling that it was picked a little too late, reminiscent of some of those 2006s on the finish that is missing some delineation. Returning to the glass it actually becomes more refined and elegant, with a saline tang on the finish. This must represent one of Bouchard’s finest contributions to the vintage.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032
(just four barrels produced, vs. a normal seven): Very pale, slightly cloudy yellow. Lime, lemon and dusty herbs on the nose. Larger-scaled and showier than the "regular" Chevalier-Montrachet, with a lovely sugar/acid equilibrium to the rich peach flesh and saline mineral flavors. For such a powerful wine, this shows lovely early balance. Very long on the finish. This was made without any new oak, according to Philippe Prost, who noted that the best barrels for both this wine and the Chevalier-Montrachet are usually two years old.